The Quick Release Plate

The Quick Release Plate

"Everything is simpler than you think and yet more complex than you imagine."  - unknown

     This item may be called an accessory, but a quick release plate is actually quite essential to your work flow; if you regularly use a tripod, that is. This is because it's main purpose, and the only use for many photographers, is to secure a camera to a tripod. A quick release plate consists of two pieces: a plate that mounts to the underside of the camera itself, and a locking platform that mounts to the top of the tripod (sometimes referred to as "the head". There are pan/tilt heads, ball heads, gear heads, panorama heads, and a few others, but more on that in a bit.). The two pieces interlock when connected to provide a safe and solid mounting solution. When you need to use the camera off the tripod, there's a small lever or knob, depending on the model, that unlocks the plate from the platform and the camera is free. It's definitely faster than unscrewing the tripod from the camera! Remember those days? Ugh... Keep in mind that the plate is, for the most part, only compatible with the platform it came with. There may be some exceptions, or you might find a one in a million match, but it's best practice to keep the two together to ensure the best fit.

     If you're buying a new, non-professional tripod, it will most likely already have a head and come with a quick release system built in (pictured far right below). These are great tripods for beginners and enthusiasts, and I highly recommend them. You might also find that tripods aren't your thing (like I did), and you won't have spent a fortune on fancy accessories. However, if you're a landscape or architecture photographer, a tripod is as essential as the camera itself, so don't be stingy. If you're looking for something in the pro range, you'll have lots to choose from. Usually, the more expensive tripods don't include a head so you'll have to buy it separately. You'll have the option to buy many different types of heads, but the two most common are called pan & tilt heads, and ball heads.

A Professional tripod with ballhead, a monopod, and a pan/tilt tripod; all with quick release plates
Photo by TonyTheTiger (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

     A pan/tilt head is a classic style, and it's distinctive feature is one or more long handles that control the tightness of a collar which allows its movement. The handles allow for smooth adjustments when panning left & right or tilting up & down. The name says it all huh... A ball head doesn't usually have an arm for adjustments, but rather just a knob instead that controls the grip on the ball. Your hold on the camera takes the place of the long handles of the pan/tilt style head. There are some ball heads that have a grip handle attached for those who prefer it; it's yet another way to customize your setup!

The underside of a quick release plate using a flat head screw
Photo by Хрюша (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

     The screw that attaches the quick release plate to the camera has what's called a 1/4-20 thread. This means the diameter of the screw is 1/4", and there are 20 threads per inch. Why do you need to know this? Well, you probably don't unless you're a clever customizer like myself. If you need to attach something to your tripod that isn't a camera (yes, you can do that, and it's fun too!), and end up at the hardware store to buy some parts, then you'll need to know what size that screw thread is. While we're talking (I'm talking) about that screw on the quick release plate, you should also be aware that the method of tightening it can be very important or very unimportant. It depends on if you can afford multiple quick release systems, or whether or not you'll be using something called a Joby UltraPlate (or other similar device). Let me explain: On the under side of the quick release plate, you'll find the head of the screw that screws into the camera. The method by which it is tightened can be convenient if it uses a flip up handle similar to the Manfrotto BlackRapid FastenR. Or it can be a real annoyance if it requires a flat-head screwdriver and you're in the field and don't have a flat head screwdriver. Arrrgh! If you can afford it, buy 2 quick release systems and then buy one extra plate (if available). You should then put one plate on each of your two most used cameras, one of the quick release platforms on your tripod, and then put the entire second quick release kit onto a super-clamp of some kind for use on a light stand or a wall or anything else you want!

     The quick release setup, if included on your tripod, is a great deal and well worth buying a new tripod if yours doesn't currently have this feature. Check your tripod closely or ask an associate at your local camera shop if you think you may be able to remove the existing head. If you're purchasing a new head and quick release system, be aware that quality differences certainly exist among available brands of this product, so ask around and do your research before making a purchase. Also, the reviews and ratings of a product are full of valuable information; read them all!

      Well, that's it for now. Please, if you have any questions, comments, or corrections, just write them in the comment box below! And, I would LOOOOOVE it if you share my articles using the little icon thingies below!! :) Thanks!

The Lens Hood

The Lens Hood: A Shady Tool

"People who don't use the tools given to them only injure themselves." - Debra Wilson

     There are several camera and lens accessories available that aren't used by beginners simply because they think they don't need them. They say "Oh, well I'm not a professional, so... I don't need that." I would think it'd be the other way around: the pros are so good that they don't need the accessories! Well this article is going to teach you what lens hoods do, why you should have them on ALL your lenses, and it includes some hopefully helpful tips. Let's get started! 

Photo By Jailbird (Own work)

     First off, you should know that the main purpose of a lens hood is to block the sun or other bright light source from entering into lens directly. Yes, you do want light to enter the lens, that's how we get our pictures! However, the light entering the lens that is responsible for making images is reflected light. It's been reflected off our subject first.  Direct light from the Sun, a studio strobe, or a street light for example, will create a strong glare in the image at worst or just cause an overall haze at best. Sometimes, this can be a useful effect to give the photo some artistic edge, but it can be easily overdone and ruin the image if not executed properly. More on that in a future article!

     Another reason to put that lens hood on is one that I think is even more important than blocking out stray light beams... A lens hood protects your lens. It's another line of defense for that sensitive front element. Imagine if you were wearing a baseball cap and walked straight into a brick wall. The bill of your baseball cap would hit the wall, but your face wouldn't because the bill sticks out further. A lens hood provides the same type of protection for your lens. If your out in the field and your hurrying to get the right shot and your camera swings and hits a flagpole, your $10 lens hood might break, but your $2,500 lens won't. I personally have broken 3 lens hoods by dropping the lens, dropping the camera, and turning quickly and smacking it against a wall. In all 3 scenarios, the lens wasn't damaged at all because the hood protected it. Don't tell me you've never dropped something expensive; and if even if you haven't, you will. You should have your lens hoods on ALL the time, even indoors! 

     There are different types of lens hoods (hard plastic or collapsible rubber for example) as well as different styles, each of which is designed for a particular lens. This is an accessory that must be paired with the lens it is to be used on. The reason is that the shape of the hood is determined by the focal length and other optical properties of the lens it will be used on. While one hood may actually fit on a lens it wasn't designed for, you may end up with undesirable effects as a result. For example, a lens hood that was designed for a 100mm lens may fit just fine on your new 24mm lens. The problem you will inevitably experience will be that your images will have a black border around them. Why? Because as the focal length of a lens decreases, the field of view increases. So your wide angle lens will be "seeing" the inside of your lens hood... The lens hood that was designed for a lens with a longer focal length and a narrower field of view. This is why some lens hoods are very long and cylindrical, while others are very short. Some might have a straight edge on the front, and others will have what's called a "tulip" shape. Technically, the tulip shaped hoods can be more efficient (based on how the light enters into the lens and hits the sensor), but the standard cylinder style hoods work just fine for most applications. There's a great website called toothwalker.org that really explains this in more detail; you can read all about the technical aspects of lens hoods and several other amazing photography subjects! 

Photo By Geni (Own work)

     Like I've said concerning most other accessories (but not all), there are name brand versions, and there are generic versions. I would recommend that for this,  just buy the generic version. You may not get the fancy felt lined inside rim on a generic lens hood, but if it bothers you that much, go to the craft store and buy some felt and glue. You'll still spend less than buying a name brand hood. Some great generic options are available at B&H.com and also Lenshoods.com. If you REALLY want to save money, you can just print your own lens hood at home! This option is definitely worth a try; I had a blast with it and printed all kinds of hoods for my lenses! Check it out here!

     If you need to carry your lens hood in the camera bag, but don't have any extra space to dedicate, you can attach the lens hood backwards over the lens. This should work with most lens compartments, and it ensures that you never leave home without it. Also, don't forget that you can customize your lens hoods just like you can with your lens caps! A stripe of bold colored paint or a Sponge Bob Square Pants sticker perhaps? Here's an idea: print out a small sticker with your name and email address and place it on the under side of the hood. If you ever loose it, the "finder" wont be as likely to be a "keeper"...assuming they have a conscience!

     The final reason to use a lens hood: they just look cool and it will make people think that you know what your doing! I'm kidding...sort of. Here's some links for ya:

• http://www.toothwalker.org
• http://www.bhphotovideo.com
• http://www.lenshoods.net
• http://www.lenshoods.com

Please, if you have any questions, comments, or corrections, just write them in the comment box below! And, I would LOOOOOVE it if you share my articles using the little icon thingies below!! :) Thanks!

The Color Wheel: It's Not A Movie

The Color Wheel: It's Not A Movie

Color is my day-long obsession, joy and torment.
Claude Monet
Read more at http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/keywords/color_2.html#5OlUQSJrYKMsGFLU.99

"Color is my day-long obsession, joy and torment." - Claude Monet

     If you've never used a color wheel before, your missing out! It's an amazingly simple tool that gives extremely valuable information, and I think every photographer out there should have one!

A Color Wheel

     In the above image, can you see the three primary colors? Do you know what a primary color is? If not, don't worry... I'm about to explain it. First, here's a list of the different types of colors you'll find on this color wheel:

• Primary colors
• Secondary colors
• Tertiary colors
• Complimentary colors
• Split complimentary colors
• Triadic colors
• Tetradic colors

     Primary colors are those that when mixed together, can make all the other colors; they cannot, however be made by mixing any colors together. The primary colors are: red, blue, and yellow.

     Secondary colors are the colors that are made when two primary colors are mixed. For example, Red + Yellow = Orange; Orange is a secondary color. The secondary colors are: orange, green, and violet.

     Tertiary colors (intermediate colors) are formed by mixing one primary color with one secondary color. For example, Red + Violet = Red-violet. Some of the possible tertiary colors are: red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, and blue-violet.

     Complimentary colors are two colors that are opposites in placement on the color wheel and when used in close proximity are pleasing to the eye. No, it doesn't sound very scientific, but it was a scientist who first developed the idea. Who? Oh, just some guy by the name of Sir Isaak Newton! An example of complimentary colors would be: red & green, yellow & violet, or yellow-orange & blue-violet.

     Split Complimentary colors are the two colors on either side of one of the two complimentary colors. So, if we look at the diagram above, if you chose violet as your main color, then yellow would be your complimentary color, while yellow-green & yellow-orange would be your split complimentary colors. The idea of the split complimentary color scheme requires that you have one main color to start with in order to determine what the other two colors will be. 

     Triadic colors are any three colors that are evenly distributed on the color wheel. An example would be the primary colors red, blue, and yellow. The secondary colors also work in this fashion, as do some of the tertiary colors (red-orange, yellow-green, and blue violet). 

     Tetradic colors are four colors that are made up of two complimentary sets. For example, on the color wheel above, lets say that one of your chosen complimentary colors sets is red & green, and your second chosen set is violet & yellow. Well, those four colors in a palette are called tetradic colors.

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     I would understand if your confused, 

but hopefully your not bored... cause there's more.

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    OK, so we've talked (I've talked) about all the different colors and color schemes. Now, it's time for all the variations on those colors. So let's keep going! 

     Hue is basically just a different way to describe color. So for example, if you went to buy a new car with a green hue, you'd be looking for green colored cars. 

     Tint is a word to describe a lighter version of an original color. So for example, lets say you have blue as your original color. If you were to mix a bit of white into the blue, you would have a blue tint. Add a little more white, and you'll have a different blue tint. Make sense?

     Shade is a word to describe a darker version of a color. It's the same process as with tint, but using black instead. If you were to add some black to green, the you would have a shade of green. 

     Tone is used to describe a color plus grey. Again, it's the same process, we're just using grey this time. So if red was your original color, and you add some grey, then you have a tone of red or a red tone. 

     You may have also heard someone use the phrase "warm colors" or "cool colors". There's two different things they could be referring to. Warm or cool looking colors, and color temperature. For example, during a sunset, the sky will have a lot of reds, oranges and yellows present. These are considered to be "warm colors". During midday, the sky will have more blue and cyan present, and these are called "cool colors". Color temperature is a phrase used to describe the color of light that is emitted when a theoretical object called a "black-body radiator" is heated and it is measured in degrees Kelvin (K). The details of it all are far more complicated than this blog is meant for, so I'll leave it at that. However, you should know that color temperature works on a scale that is visually opposite of what you might expect. A higher number will have more blue, and a lower number will have more red. For example, a candle that burns with a very "warm" colored glow might have a low color temperature of say 3200K. A studio strobe with a blue gel filter on it, however, may have a very "cool" looking color, but its color temperature would be very high at perhaps 7000K. This is important to understand if you're going to accurately correct the white balance in your photos. 

    Like I said, this is a very simple tool, but really provides a lot of useful information. The version used for this article is made by The Color Wheel Company and is always at my desk unless I take it on a photo-shoot. I recommend the Pocket Color Wheel for portability, but the 9-1/4" wheel is great for the studio! They're cheap and easy to use, so don't hesitate! 

Please, if you have any questions, comments, or corrections, just write them in the comment box below! And, I would LOOOOOVE it if you share my articles using the little icon thingies below!! :) Thanks!

The Lens Cap

The Lens Cap: More Than Meets The Eye
"That which costs little is less valued." - Miguel de Cervantes

     Now you may be thinking: "Really? He's chosen lens caps as a topic to discuss?"

     Yes I have. 

     I realize that most people think a lens cap is so simple, that there's really no reason to ever mention them. Not even in a blog about photography... We all know how to use a lens cap, right? It's not rocket science. Well actually, it might be. You already know a lens cap is used to protect the front and back of the lens when the lens is not being used. There are some other things, however, that you may not have thought of, and I'd like to share them with you now. 

     First, you should know there are 3 types of front lens caps, and 2 types of rear lens caps. They are as follows:

     1. Front end snap on (which is available as edge pinch or center pinch)

     2. Front end screw-on

     3. Front end slide on

     4. Rear end screw-on

     5. Rear end slide on

     Let's start at the front with the snap on types. This is the most common type of front lens cap, and if you have a lens that was built within the past 15 years, it most likely has this style of cap. The edge pinch caps have been a Canon standard for some time, and Canon is just recently switching over to the center pinch style. What am I talking about? On the lens cap itself, there are two spring loaded tabs that actually fit inside the threaded part of the lens when placed, and must be pressed simultaneously in order to release the cap. This is a great design, unless you want to leave your lens hood on and still have the ability to place and remove the cap. Because of having to pinch the edges, the lens hood would be in the way and you'd be forced to remove it to get the cap off. With a center pinch style cap, the spring loaded tabs are placed in the center of the cap, and are easily accessed with or without a lens hood in place. Not sure why Canon decided to wait so long to make the change, as Nikon has been doing this for some time now. Anyway, that's the snap on type. 

  Front & Back Of  A  Front Snap-on Type Lens Cap

   Next is the front end screw-on type. This type of cap actually utilizes the threads of the barrel to attach itself to the lens. This is a far more secure style of attachment, as it won't come loose in the camera bag or while walking. However, it also means that you'll be adding several seconds to the process of getting the camera ready to shoot, and if you frequently find yourself needing to shoot at a moments notice, then a screw-on cap is probably not what you want. There is a solution to the slowness of a screw-on lens cap, and it's fairly new also, so it may not be available to you. It's a screw-on type cap, that also has a built in hinge for the actual cover. So when you need to shoot, you just push a small button on the edge of the cap assembly, and the cover quickly folds back. It's still attached to the lens, it just hangs down out of the way. You can check it out here.

     The last of the front end caps is one that is less likely to be seen or manufactured, except for specialty lenses. It is the slide on style and it does just what it sounds like. It slides right onto the front end of the lens. It works, but it also has the potential to slide right off again, even if you don't want it to.

     At the rear, you have your choice of a screw-on type, or a push on type. The screw-on version uses the lens mount to attach itself securely to the rear of the lens. This is the most common type of rear cap for newer lenses. 

Two Rear Screw-on Type Caps; One Canon, One Generic

     The slide on type for the rear is exactly the same as the front end version, and comes with the same benefit of easy application and removal, as well as the same downfall of unwanted removal. Again, this type is not common anymore, and you'll likely only find it on older or specialty lenses.

*On the inside of your lens cap, you should find the size of lens
 it's compatible with, imprinted in mm.

     Of course you have to have an accessory for your accessory, and that's where the lens cap strap comes in. It's a small string that attaches itself on one end to the cap, and on the other end to the camera or lens. It's a nifty little thing, and if your prone to losing your caps all the time, it may just be worth a few dollars to invest in one. There are several variations of products available to help keep you from losing your lens caps; several devices are available that allow you to secure the cap to the camera strap for safe keeping, while others mount directly to the camera or to your belt and securely hold the caps there. I'll leave some links at the bottom of this page to product pages so you can see what I'm talking about and decide which option, if any, is right for you. Personally, I just put my front lens caps in my pocket. 

My 17-40L With Screw-on Style Rear Cap

     What about brand name caps vs generic caps? I've had both, and to be honest, the only difference is that one has a fancy brand name logo on the front, and one doesn't. They both function the same, they both grip the same, and they both protect the same. If you'd like to see "Canon" or "Nikon" or "Sony" or whatever brand you have on your caps, then fine. Otherwise, you can save some mula by just buying the generic version. It could likely be the difference between $5 and $15.

     Did you know you can also buy custom made lens caps? That's right, custom lens caps. It's mostly for people with a very old or unique lens that doesn't have a cap already. One such provider, is a machinist who makes not only custom fit caps, but many other lens accessories as well. You can check them out at www.skgrimes.com. Another way to get some sweet customization on your lens caps is to place something over the front of it. For example, a sticker of your favorite rock band, your name or business name, a big yellow smiley face, or whatever else you like. You can spray paint the cap with some funky colors, maybe glue some glitter, diamonds, or fake fur to it... You get the idea. Here's another website that may be able to help out: www.objektivist.at

     *One great idea is to put a pure white sticker on the inside of the cap. You take a picture of it during your photo shoot, and later use it to get an accurate white balance for all the photos!

     Now about the rocket science part... 

The following is a true story, but it has been re-written by me. I am not a professional historian, 
I wasn't there, and the information I'm repeating was obtained through the internet. 
If I've made a mistake, I apologize, and I'd be happy to correct it. 

Scientists working on Venera 11 

     In 1978, the USSR had a mission to explore the planet Venus. They had already sent out at least 10 rockets on this mission during previous years (some of them not on the official record). On December 23 of that year, they launched Venera 11; their official 11th rocket sent to explore the atmosphere and surface of Venus. The rocket consisted of two main sections: a lander, which would actually land on Venus and take readings from the surface, and a flight platform, which would receive signals from the lander and relay them back to Earth. The flight platform had a nice set of fancy equipment for reading gamma rays and the like, while the lander's equipment was designed more for physical matter like dust or dirt. The lander also had two color cameras which of course required lens caps to protect the lenses on the journey through outer space. Well, it finally came time to remotely remove the lens caps and behold the amazing environment of Venus. Unfortunately, they were unable to do so. Clearly, someone in the engineering department underestimated the potential complexity of a lens cap. So they continued on with the 95 minute visit, and transmitted lots of very interesting data about the scorching hot planet back to Earth. Future visits would prove to be more successful in regards to cameras and lens caps. We should be very grateful to these scientists for teaching us all more about this galaxy of ours!

     So there you have it: lens caps are rocket science. 

     Hope you enjoyed reading this; have you done anything interesting with your lens caps? Share your stories, comments, questions or corrections in a comment below! And, I would LOOOOOVE it if you share my articles using the little icon thingies below!! :)

The Sensei Cap Keeper Plus

The Capbuckle

The Hufa Lens Cap Strap Holder
The Nice Clip

The Battery Grip

The Battery Grip: Your FIRST Accessory

"No one has ever written, painted, sculpted, modeled, built, or invented 
except literally to get out of hell. " - Antonin Artaud 

       And a hell it must have been before battery grips were invented! If you don't own a battery grip for your camera, go buy one. If you don't know what a battery grip is, keep reading, and then go buy one. It is the ultimate, most used, most useful, most important, most cool looking, camera accessory you will ever have. Or at least, that's what I think. 

 

The Two Options For Battery Grip Power

     You can probably tell by the looks of it, that this accessory is not built for or compatible with compact and 3/4 mirrorless cameras. These are only made for SLR and DSLR cameras and are available for many brands and models. Keep in mind also, it is not a "one size fits all" device. If you have two different cameras, a Canon 5D MkIII and a Canon 7D for example, you'll need to purchase two separate battery grips. 

     So let's start with the basics... First off, adding a battery grip to your camera will effectively double your battery life while you're out shooting because inside, it holds not one, but two batteries! In fact, it comes with a cassette to hold your fancy lithium camera batteries and it should come with an adapter cassette that will hold (usually) 6 AA batteries. Now, as I've experienced, when using the camera on dollar store AA batteries, they're good for about 6 hours. You'll likely get more time with name brand batteries though. In contrast, when using the two lithium-ion camera batteries, you could get several days worth of shooting time. So, the AAs aren't great, but they can be a life saver in a remote location where there's no AC power to charge anything...

The Under Side Of This Grip Reveals An Extra Strap Loop!

     The next big advantage comes from being able to turn the camera on its side to allow for a portrait orientation, and still having a shutter release button (and several other controls) right in the same spot. The grip has the shutter release, a scroll wheel, an AE lock/FE lock button, AF point selection button, & the Aperture/Exposure compensation button. The controls fully mimic those of the actual camera, so there's no learning curve at all and it feels completely natural to use. You do know what this means right? No more flailing your right elbow around potentially whacking someone in the face! Your family and friends will thank you. 

     The grip attaches to the camera through the battery compartment and uses the 1/4-20 threaded hole to secure itself. This accessory will add a lot of size and weight to the camera, but you'll get used it quickly and soon find the advantages far outweigh any size/weight concerns. On the underside of the grip, you'll hopefully find an extra camera strap loop, though it may not be available on all models. I think this is a beautiful bonus because it allows you to re-strap the camera in a way that not only moves the strap away from your busy right hand, but also allows the camera to hang in a more convenient fashion when walking. 

My Old Canon XSi With Battery Grip

      Not at all a technical aspect, the look and feel of the camera with a battery grip improves as well. I know... it sounds silly, but looks count! Even your clients will be impressed with your fancier looking gear. For me, the feel of the grip is something I could never give up. Without it, my right hand pinkie does this weird thing where it slides around on the bottom edge of the camera and after a day of shooting, my pinkie is more sore than my feet! Every camera and future camera I own must have a battery grip. It would be like trying on a pair of sneakers after wearing wooden shoes all your life. You'll never go back. 

     The last thing to mention, is how much one of these babies is going to cost you. Well, the cost of course depends on several factors. First, the model of the camera for which you're purchasing a battery grip will effect the price. For example, a battery grip for a Canon T4i may cost less than it would for a Canon 5D MkIII. Not much you can do about that, except to buy a less fancy camera, and that's just dumb. Another factor to effect price is whether or not it's a name brand unit or a generic brand. In my experience, the generic brands do a great job and shouldn't be overlooked. They feel the same, function the same and look the same as their name brand counter parts. Of course there are subtle differences, and you may opt for the more expensive name brand. That's fine! For the beginners out there without a fat bank account, don't stress, buy the generic version. 

     Well that does it for now, I hope you enjoyed the article! If you have questions, comments, or corrections for me, please let me know in a comment! And, I would LOOOOOVE it if you share my articles using the little icon thingies below!! :)

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